The Jewels Of The Pushkar Fair

They are sisters and cousins, teenage girls earning money modeling at the Pushkar Camel Fair. They are between 10 and 18 years old. Three have been married, and two are mothers.

These young women are members of the Kalbelia tribe, the snake-charming tribe from the desert of Rajasthan, India. Part of their religious heritage is to beg for alms, a mandate handed down from Lord Shiva in honor of and in payment for their expertise in dealing with snakes.  This was done mainly through snake-charming performances, but the government passed the Wildlife Act of 1972, prohibiting the capture and taming of wild animals. The tribe shifted to dance and music to inspire donations.  Despite the 1972 law, snake charmers were at the fair, and these Kalbelia women were modeling for their money.

Suman, 18, has been photographed at the fair for years. She is beautiful, with striking hazel-green eyes. She is joined now by sisters Sajna, 16, and Sonu, 14. There are four younger siblings I did not see. Suman is also joined by cousins Sajna (18) and Baby Suman (10).

Suman married at 13 and gave birth to a son. After breastfeeding her baby boy for a year, her husband kept the child, and the couple divorced. Suman returned home. She has no contact with her ex-husband or son.

Suman, age 18

Her mother arranged the marriage. She also arranged a marriage for younger sister Sajna when she was 14.  Now 16, Sajna has also returned home. Traditionally, the bride’s family is paid something by the groom’s family, and the groom’s family pays for the wedding.

Sajna, age 16

A documentary filmmaker, Sonali Devnani, met Suman 10 years ago.  She visited her year after year, and they became close.  Sonali raised the funds to purchase Suman a home; the entire family lives there.  Here is a short documentary about that purchase: https://www.instagram.com/tv/COAxwgNBlfi/?igshid=ZDE1MWVjZGVmZQ==

Sonali informed Suman’s mother that she has money in the bank for Suman and that Sonali will be involved in any future marriage.  Sonali visits the girls twice a year and will soon do another fundraiser to build a bathroom for their home.  You can follow Sonali on Instagram at @sonalid3 (https://www.instagram.com/sonalid3/) to keep current and participate.  Her work is incredible.

Sonu, age 14

The girls have little education. Their mother repeatedly promises Sonali that she will put them in school, but she does not. When the girls are not modeling at the fair, they work on construction sites or harvest peanuts.

Sonu and Suman in their tent

Sajna

Clearly, the girls are beautiful.  They are vibrantly dressed, wear lovely jewels, and have make-up carefully applied.  They come across as serious and cooperative, both eager to work and resigned to dealing with photographers, but they warm up quickly.  They laughed at my gestures and expressions.  Seeing them lose their composure and have a good time was my favorite part of our interactions.  Watching authentic selves break through a carefully crafted veneer is a joy.  Their affection with each other is also endearing.

cousin Baby Suman, age 10 and Sonu

cousin Sajna, age 18 and sister Sajna

I love capturing photos and telling stories through images. Sometimes, the greatest fun in photography happens when we recognize what we have in common, when we really see each other, though we live entirely different lives.  When a teenage girl gives side-eye and a wry smile to a woman old enough to be her Mom, that moment transcends our differences.

It’s easy to miss, and I saw many photographers do so. I saw photographers look at the girls simply as subjects to shoot; some scumbags even walked away without paying them for their modeling (our group had words with more than one selfish shooter).  Others were polite but moved right along to other subjects.  I think they missed the best part: the shared smile, the giggle, the moment of genuinely enjoying one another.

Suman, Sajna, Sonu, Cousin Sajna, and Baby Suman are much more than beautiful girls in the desert. They live lives we can’t imagine. Meeting and photographing them is a privilege. And an opportunity to share warmth and connection beyond the surface impressions.

Suman, cousin Suman with her son, Sonu, Sajna

INDIA  STORIES